Elgato 4K60 Pro MK.2 - How to Fix the "No Signal" HDR Issue

Elgato 4K 60 Pro is a notorious capture card, since on one hand, it offers the best flashback recording utility on the market, but on the other hand, that’s only when it works… Even though a “plain” HDMI signal will work 99% of the times without any issues, when you put an HDR signal on the mix, that’s when you will meet your worst enemy, the No Signal screen:

The PlayStation 5 and Xbox One / Xbox Series X | S are affected the most by this issue, and since the 4K 60 Pro is pretty much your only option for capturing 4K 60 FPS HDR footage, we’re left at Elgato’s mercy…

Both systems (PS5 / XSX) offer a terrible experience, since:

• Xbox One / Series X | S will open up fine (since there’s no HDR support on the dashboard), but when you launch an HDR game chances are you will just end up with No Signal. It’s worth noting even the dashboard is “hard to load” though, compared to older plain HDMI signals (I’ve almost never had any issues with PS3, Xbox 360, Wii U, Switch, or the OSSC that gets fed all my composite / component signals and converts them to HDMI).
• PlayStation 5 uses HDR in the Dashboard as well, so if “it works, it works” – there is no further signal switching when launching games. But it’s WAY harder to make it work, since feeding an HDR signal to the 4K 60 Pro is so damn problematic.

After recording more than 2,000 hours of footage with the 4K 60 Pro, and having wasted at least 200 of them staring at the “No Signal” screen, I’ve had enough.

Important! Since I’m using 15+ consoles on the signal chain, my final HDMI signal splits between the main monitor’s HDMI input, and 4K 60 Pro’s HDMI input. I never have issues with the HDMI signal that goes to my monitor, it works right away every single time, no matter the console, if its 480p, 4K, or HDR. This way I can ensure that the issue lies 100% with Elgato’s 4K 60 Pro. (for reference, my monitor is Aorus FO48U).

I’m going to share an extensive list of all the possible fixes you can try when the issue shows up, sorted by the fastest / easiest ones, to the longest / hardest ones:

General Tips to Help You Avoid Most Bugs

• Ensure that you always launch 4K Capture Utility first, and then open your consoles. For some reason, the initial signal the console sends when it fires up, will offer a higher success ratio with 4K 60 Pro picking up the signal.
• In case you are using an HDMI Switcher in your video chain, then it also helps to rotate through the switcher’s input, in most cases it will make the video signal “kick in”.
• Ideally, you don’t want to use 4K 60 Pro’s HDMI passthrough for your monitor. Doing this, will mean that everytime you get no signal from Elgato, your monitor won’t have any signal either! It’s best to use an HDMI splitter at the final part of your chain, so that you can feed the raw signal to your monitor directly, and also send the same feed at 4K 60 Pro’s input. In this case, ensure that your HDMI splitter is capable of transferring 4K 60 HDR, and ideally also bypasses HDCP.
• Whether HDCP is on or off in your console won’t matter, as long as your HDMI splitter bypasses HDCP. If you don’t use an HDMI splitter, then you will need HDCP to be turned off, in order for 4K 60 Pro to translate the signal.
• As long as you fix the No Signal issue, it’s quite hard to lose it again for some time, unless you swap to a different console / signal. Therefore, you can safely restart 4K Capture Utility to reset the Flashback Recording, or re-enable HDR recording (if disabling it was what fixed the signal for you). However, I wouldn’t swap Input EDID Modes again, as long as you get the right signal, it doesn’t matter which Input Mode you are using for the recording’s quality.
• Always be on the lookout for further bugs, for example many times after you get your signal, the “Capture” resolution of Elgato will stay at 1080p, even though the source is 2160p. So simply restart 4K Capture Utility to fix the issue.

Change Input EDID Mode in 4K Capture Utility

This is the bread & butter of fixing 4K 60 Pro’s No Signal issue.

Just go to Preferences > Device, and swap between the 3 Input EDID Mode options, Internal, Display & Merged, and click Apply (no need to press OK and close the window, if it’s going to work, you will see the video feed without the need to close the window).

Wait up to 5 seconds after hitting Apply, and if it’s not fixed, go with the next option.

Sadly, what each option actually does, does not seem to apply, and most of the times either Internal or Display will work for me (even though Merged is supposed to be both modes together…):

• Internal – Using 4K 60 Pro’s EDID, meaning there is definitely support for 4K 60 HDR signals.
• Display – Using your Monitor’s EDID. Unknown if it combines the EDID’s of all connected monitors, or just the Primary one.
• Merged – Using both Internal & Display, so it’s supposed to be the “best of both worlds”, yet it’s the option that most rarely works.

When using an internal EDID, you can also define a custom EDID you have created. This might be the best solution after all, but it’s not one I’ve implemented yet, so please share your experience in the comments if you did.

Toggle HDR Recording On & Off

Enabling or disabling HDR Recording through Preferences > Recording, is bound to “reset” the 4K 60 Pro and the Flashback recording every time, so it’s a good way to give an extra “hint” to Elgato, that hey! There is a video signal here!

Disable & Enable 4K 60 Pro in Device Manager

Just press the Windows key and type “Device Manager” to get there quickly, then expand the “Sound, video and game controllers” category (make sure that View > Devices by type is selected on top), to find Game Capture 4K60 Pro MK.2.

Right-click to Disable the device, and then after the Device Manager refreshes, find it again, and this time Enable it.

This method will reset the physical connection on the PCI-E slot, so it’s almost equivalent to the last method, physically re-seating the capture card.

Remove & Reinsert the 4K 60 Pro’s HDMI-In Cable

I hate this method, but it’s actually recommended by Elgato themselves, and it does work sometimes.

Be careful with it though, a 4K 60 HDR signal pretty much caps out an HDMI 2.0 cable, and I’ve been hit by the current quite a few times, which I guess is not the safest thing to do.

Restart Your Computer

Surprisingly, this is one of the most effective ways you can get your signal back!

When you’ve exhausted your patience by swapping Input EDID Modes, and toggling HDR on and off, it’s a good time to restart your PC.

I’d say this method has more than 80% success chance, especially if you’ve also disabled  & re-enabled 4K 60 Pro from the Device Manager in the previous step.

Re-Seat the Capture Card on the PCI-E Slot

This is the worst solution of course, since you have to physically remove the capture card from the PCI-E slot (much easier in case you are using an external PCI-E slot that supports PCI-E 4x).

I would only do this if you have already spent hours troubleshooting, and you are getting nowhere.

Final Notes – Elgato, Please Fix Your Card!!!

Having these types of issues is simply unacceptable, and I literally can’t count how many hours I’ve wasted troubleshooting, instead of capturing content…

Elgato, you are fully aware that you have the only product on the market that combines 4K 60 HDR with 4 Hours Flashback Recording, so please, JUST FIX IT!

AverMedia Live Gamer 4K is the only alternative, but without Flashback Recording (only a cheap alternative that’s up to 1 hour, and you have to explicitly run it, so you might just as well record everything in OBS either way).

Other than that, you would have to move to extremely professional solutions like Black Magic products, which would cost you 20 Elgato cards to boot.

The good news for us? With how many people I’m sure have the same issue, we’ll probably make enough from this guide to setup a Black Magic studio for ourselves!